Tuesday 22 February 2011

Rebekah Diski visits Rogbonko Village in Sierra Leone


The journey to Rogbonko is supposed to take three hours from Freetown. It takes us a lot longer, but the journey offers the chance to get a good look at both urban and rural Sierra Leone. We leave the city on a road that declares itself ‘built with the support of the EU’. The streets are lined with photogenic shop-fronts, their walls adorned with painted adverts or premier league football teams or signs that beckon you in ‘to relax and refresh yourself’ or ‘charge your phone here’. There are roadworks everywhere, apparently part of the incumbent president’s re-election strategy. Women proffer pineapples and bananas from baskets on their heads while cars overloaded with petrol containers of palm wine wait at checkpoints. After a couple of hours the smooth tarmac gives way to a dusty red track that is still surprisingly comfortable. The shacks are replaced by banana trees, sugar-cane and blackened fields that bear the mark of recent slash-and-burn farming. Processions of tiny children march along the road balancing piles of dried palm leaves on their heads. Everyone waves and shouts ‘potho!’ (foreigner) enthusiastically as we drive past.

Rogbonko lies in a clearing of lush forest in the Tonkolili district in the Northern region, an area that was mainly under rebel control during the civil war. Sheka Forna, whose family founded this village but who himself grew up mostly in London, has set up a ‘village retreat’ for those wanting to sample traditional village life. His sister has established a thriving primary school to serve the vast child population. We stay in thatched clay huts but with slightly less traditional stone floors and beds. The water is provided in buckets and we eat local rice and groundnut stew. The villagers are friendly, particularly the many young children who follow us around and insist on shaking our hands and repeating their hellos and goodbyes several times. We had been told that Rogbonko was predominantly Muslim and were asked to dress appropriately, though the village is full of bare-breasted women pounding rice and shelled palm nuts. The brand of Islam here seems to be fairly relaxed, with a little church co-existing next to the mosque and many families apparently of mixed religion. We stop and chat to a few groups, buy some raffia baskets, and peer into various cooking pots, while chickens and baby goats stumble over our feet. We spend the evening in an open-walled lounge lit by oil-lamps, listening to the cicadas and the bustle of the village. The next day we borrow the dugout canoe that the villagers use to cross the stream between the village and their rice fields. We drift along past women washing their clothes and their children, propelled by a guide using a shovel as a paddle and two boys who help steer with a bamboo pole and their feet.

The only signs of the recent conflict are the signs for USAID and UN reconciliation and reconstruction projects that are dotted around the area. Moses, who has accompanied us from Freetown, spent most of the war in a refugee camp in Guinea, which he actually remembers fondly. He learned several languages and received a basic education, although now he is struggling to find a permanent job and can’t afford the university career he craves. Most conversations quickly turn to the war, but the Sierra Leoneans we meet talk about the future with an admirable optimism. Projects like that at Rogbonko are, hopefully, just the beginnings of a trend towards sustainable tourism that could make that future a little brighter.

Saturday 19 February 2011

Roger Diski in Sierra Leone - Part I

Photo by Roger Diski

It was a bouncy one-hour boat ride to Bunce Island this morning, but the island itself was fascinating. It was a slave processing factory. In one end, out the other, having been checked for health (unfit ones despatched), sorted, sold, branded and packed for transportation. All done in one compact island site, the furthest upstream that the slaver boats could go. The ruins are very atmospheric - giant baobabs, huge buttress trees, strangler figs. The slave dungeons are now inhabited by bats. Our guide is excellent - nice guy and knowledgeable on history.

The tour took an hour. Bunce Island was declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 2008 and now there is an American engineer and team about to embark on stabilizing the most crumbly bits. We met him.

Then a 45-minute boat ride to Aberdeen jetty for a reduced tour of Freetown, taking in the Cotton Tree and the new war memorial, which opened two days ago. We were told we were the first tourists to visit - they hadn't printed tickets yet! Then a few more sights - big market, quayside market, crafts market, book market, then off to the hotel.

At  Country Lodge now, sitting in the veranda bar having the local beer and it's about 30ÂșC. Very nice.

Wednesday 16 February 2011

Roger Diski Tears His Trousers - Adventures in Rwanda

Chimp Tracking in Nyungwe Forest


 It’s not easy. You have to work hard to find the chimps, and the first part of working hard is getting an early morning call at 3.30.  After muffins, croissants and a strong cup of coffee, we were on the road at 4.15 to pick up our guide from the forest HQ. Then it’s about an hour’s drive to the part of the forest where the chimp tracking takes place. Here, those who wished could hire a porter to carry their backpacks, and then we were off into the forest at about 6am, as dawn broke. This is the time when the chimps are active, feeding up in the fig trees and moving through the forest canopy searching for food.

You start off on a forest trail and it all seems fairly easy, if a bit steep; but then, when the chimps are located, it’s a machete job, cutting a trail through the rainforest - and suddenly we are following paths through undergrowth where no human foot has trodden before. It’s steep and we are walking over a carpet of vines that can be a couple of feet thick; anything I grab onto is rotten, has no substance, comes away in my hand - and we are trying to be quiet so that the chimps do not clear off before we get there. My lightweight trekking trousers were ripped apart by a thorn, and I will take a pair of gardening gloves next time.

We encountered our group of chimps at about 10am. There were three of them, eating in different trees. We had a few minutes looking at them, took some pictures and then they moved on. I think we were making too much noise. Was our brief encounter worth four hours’ tracking? Well, we all felt it was, that we’d witnessed something special, and that the tracking/ trekking had been a wonderful       adventure.

We spent another hour or so trying to locate a second group, but failed and came out of the forest lower down the slopes. As we came out of the forest, the cultivation began. There is no intermediate zone: where the forest ends, banana trees begin. Every inch of land that can be, is cultivated in Rwanda. It has the densest population in Africa.

Soon we came across a Twa (pygmy) village. Everyone seemed pleased to see us, and we took some pictures, bought some pots and masses of children gathered around. A 4x4 came down to collect us so we didn’t have to climb back up the forest slopes and we were back at our starting point by midday. An hour’s drive took us back to Nyungwe Forest Lodge where lunch awaited.

Monday 14 February 2011

Roger Diski catches a glimpse of twin gorillas born 3 February 2011

Gorilla gives birth to twins in Volcanoes National Park
 


It’s extremely rare for mountain gorillas to give birth to living twins – the last time was in 2004 - so when I heard last week that this had just happened within the Hirwa group of gorillas in Rwanda’s Volcanoes National Park, I decided to try to get a look at them.
 We’d been climbing steadily through bamboo forest on Mt Sabyinyo for about an hour when the gorillas came tumbling down the hill to greet us. This is the only way I can describe our meeting. They were curious and playful. The Hirwa group comprises fifteen individuals, with several playful young ones and a few adorable babies among them. We had an hour with them and I can only describe it as an interaction, rather than a viewing. We were moving the whole time, mainly down the slopes, as they cavorted in front of us, behind us, above us.

But where were the twins? Suddenly, we caught the swiftest glimpse of a mother holding two tiny babies to her breast, one in each arm. They had gorgeous twinkly eyes.  And then she was gone. Our guide told us that the mothers are extremely protective and hide away during the first few days after giving birth.

It was a brief encounter, too fast to take a photo, but the image remains in my memory. In fact, it’s not easy taking gorilla photos. They are jet black in a dark forest and flash is not permitted. All too often the pictures look like black lumps – more like bears than gorillas. But these are a couple of my better shots.

One word: 'Wow'


WILL HIDE's tweet was more expansive than his email to me - 'One word: wow' - this morning:
'Just left www.babylonstoren.com near Paarl. Amazing food, setting, gardens and accommodation is right out of Elle Deco. Stunning.'

Laugh till your sides ache in Rwanda


From ROGER DISKI

Visited Iby' Iwacu, the ex-poachers village near PNV, today. What a welcome! The star attraction is the 67-year-old pygmy who dances, sings and raps welcoming songs with great gusto throughout the entire visit.

The village land was given to the poachers so that they could make a living by alternative means. There are 1000 inhabitants, and their main occupation is agriculture –planting food crops such as potatoes and tree tomatoes in the rich volcanic earth - and shaping lava blocks into valuable building stone. But they also have a fantastic hour-long cultural show for visitors, brilliantly hosted by Emmanuel.

There is a medicine man who, without any mumbo-jumbo, shows you the plants and preparations used to heal a variety of ailments – camphor for chest infections, aloe vera and honey for skin complaints, a blend of five herbs as a muscle relaxant, something to help you get pregnant, and of course herbal Viagra.


 They’ve built a replica of the old royal palace, and their skill is in persuading you to participate. They managed to dress me up as the king and took me through the various rituals – explaining the true significance of the ‘king-size’ bed, which, on occasion, had to accommodate many maidens.

They got the men to learn to shoot arrows, the women to grind sorghum, all our achievements punctuated by cries of guma guma guma (means ‘bravo’ evidently) to celebrate our success at these endeavours.  The visit culminated with an impressive display of traditional ‘intore’ dancing. Amazingly, they even persuaded the guests to join them.

I’ve been to a few cultural villages, and they can be excruciatingly embarrassing or feel phoney. This was a pure delight, and felt ‘authentic’ in the sense that they made us feel they loved doing it, were pleased to see us and were having fun. It was done with a sense of humour – my companion, Kath, said she laughed so much her sides ached - and we were made to feel part of that wonderful Rwandan community.

Wednesday 9 February 2011

Wild Madagascar

The BBC's 3-part Wild Madagascar , narrated by David Attenborough, begins at 8 pm tonight. Looking forward to close-up views of Madagascar's unique and beautiful wildlife - some filmed for the first time for this series.
Episode 1, 'Island of Marvels', is broadcast on BBC2 from 8 - 9pm tonight, followed by 'Lost Worlds' on 16 Feb and the final programme on 23 Feb. Find out more on  http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00ymh67.

If you want to be on the other side of the screen, Bridge & Wickers Africa will be glad to arrange it for you!

Chimps of the Lost Gorge




We were impressed by last night's 'Chimps of the Lost Gorge' in the BBC's Natural World series. The footage was amazing - particularly of the chimps hunting Colobus monkeys - and it was less simplistic than many wildlife programmes. It was a real pleasure to see a community project to restore forest corridor which appeared to be a Ugandan initiative, a project for which the community seems to be taking responsibility because it has come to understand that they depend of the integrity of the forest as much as the chimps.


You can watch 'Chimps of the Lost Gorge' on www.bbc.co.uk/iplayer/episode/b00ykxq9/Natural_World_20102011_Chimps_of_the_Lost_Gorge/ until 8 March - and you can visit Kyumbara Gorge and Queen Elizabeth National Park with Bridge & Wickers Africa.

Saturday 5 February 2011

Authentic Holidays

Bridge & Wickers' Roger Diski discusses some of the ways in which real, local experiences enrich a holiday in The Daily Telegraph (5 Feb 2011).
Roger arrived in Rwanda last night and was delighted by the Wifi internet access at Kigali airport.